Every time i join a tasting organised by Nigel and hosted by the HK Wine Society, I count my blessings. And much I have to count! Especially last month when we experienced quite a few "Old Madeiras".

In the flight, we had wines from 1875, 1900, 1920, 1968 and some younger wines.

What was wonderful to me was to try and understand the character of such old wines. Very unique to say the least. In part due to the grape and in part due to the production method these wines were made from.

The oldest were all Malvasia based, a.k.a. "malmsey" . Typically, Malmseys are the sweetest wines from Madeira. In part because it has a tendency to produce high amount of sugar and in part because fermentation is stopped when the wines have at least 60 g/l. it also has a high natural acidity, key to the obtain wines with a good balance so that the resulting sweet style is not cloying and stays fresh.

Here, such wines undergo a very special maturation process after fermentation. It will be put in barrels and stored in "canteiro" which is normally the hottest room of the winery. Most likely an attic with a roof well exposed to the hot sun. In the process, part of the wine will slowly evaporate not only concentrating the remaining sugar, acidity and alcohol, but it will also expose the wine to air and so ever so slowly oxidise it, or as we hear often, "maderize" it. The resulting flavours will be reminiscent of burnt sugar and or roasted nuts. An acquired taste for most who like their wines fresh & fruity...

And so it was no different with this wine. Obviously, the longer it remains in the canteiro, the more intense will be the effect of the maderization. For this 1875, I could not find out when it was actually bottled. However, from the relative cleanliness of the label and the rather "modern" looking typeface, I suppose it was bottled less than 20 years ago.

And so?

Reserva Velha Barbeito Malvasia Madeira 1875

Clearly, the nose was extra-ordinarily complex. Very difficult to explain simply by descriptors. it was a mixtures of aromas and an general impression not unlike what could be used to described a richly and carefully woven fabric. Here, the expression "layers" of complexity is not a cliché. Each sniff release something entirely different, all working together in a beautiful harmony. I suppose much like a symphony of aromas. Certainly notes of citrus, but more like the dried zests from a pot-pourri composed of grapefruits, lime, and lemon. Certainly nuts. Roasted, smoky walnuts, almonds, and chestnuts. Certainly caramel, burnt sugar, and sponge-toffee. Certainly a touch of coffee and blond tobacco...

On the palate, rich & luscious... Seductive... Delicious... Sinful... A wine that no one wants to part with reflecting how much it engages, caresses, and seduces and enchants... Beautiful mid-palate: sweet but not cloying, delicious... A long length of after-taste, very long, and engaging. Complex and lip-smacking. Impossible not to go for another taste. Sinful...

A wonderful experience....to say the least...